Marc_Jacobs

Investigate the designers influence on current trends: Sources of Inspiration that motivate the designer’s ideas, including cultural and historical influences' • Marc Jacobs is mostly inspired by the fashions from past decades, mainly from the 40’s up to the 80’s. • Jacobs immersed himself in club culture as a teen. • Was driven towards fashion when he lived with his grandmother as a teenager, where he watched all the beautiful people walk past and immersed himself in all their stunning fashion. • Jacobs still uses the beautiful people in his life as inspiration, his current girls that inspire him are the ‘fruitful crowd of cool girls that surround him’ some of these ‘cool girls’ include stylist Venetia Scott, director Sofia Coppola and art house actresses. • In some of Jacobs work he makes references to the 50’s couture staples. • A historical source of inspiration for Jacobs was Cristobal Balenciaga’s 1951 dotted blouson top and black pencil skirt. He has interpreted these items in his own way and has made items of clothing that include sculptured shoulders, peplum waists and pin neat tailoring, these all reflect on work of Balenciaga. • In 2011 Jacobs took a trip to the museum where he viewed Cristobal Balenciaga’s work, which inspired him to have a 70’s feel in his last several seasons. • The 70’s haven’t been inspiration for just Jacobs, Many designers have being inspired by it also, but Jacobs is the first who has used it to create a overflow of colours that are somewhat joyful and take us back to the days of ‘Ossie Clark’ and ‘YSL’. • Jacobs took inspiration from the best of the 70’s designers and plunged it into a sweet nostalgia. The great artists from history that inspired Jacobs are fashion photographer Guy Bourdin, Yves Saint Laurent’s ensembles, Missoni Knits and Bianca Jagger outfits. • In Jacobs work he has made references to Heroine, a character of 1976 film ‘Taxi Driver’. He used her look of the wide brimmed hat and frizzy hair on his models. • Some quotes that Jacob has said about his inspiration and range of clothing are: -“Wanted to inject a little of the hedonism of the 70’s into fashion, particularly after the neobourgeois wave that considerably subdued the fall collection” -“What i prefer is that even if someone feels hedonistic, they don’t look it. Curiosity about sex is much more interesting to me than domination... my clothes are not hot. Never never” -“I kind of like whets strict and disciplined right now. I’m tired of everything being all over the place” -“I like romantic allusions to the past: what the babysitter wore, what the art teacher wore, what I wore during my experimental days in fashion when I was going to the Mudd Club and wanted to be a New Wave kid or a punk kid but was really a poseur. It's the awkwardness of posing and feeling like I was in, but I never was in. Awkwardness gives me great comfort” Focus area- what type of items is this person famous for' • Apparel - -‘Little Marc’ (Baby clothing line) -‘Marc Jacobs collection’ -‘Marc by Marc Jacobs’ • High end runway fashion • Handbags • Clutches • Hats • Jewellery • Iphone Covers • Laptop pouches Background and career path- how did they get where they are' • Marc Jacobs was born to a New York non-observant Jewish family on April 9th in 1963, and has grown up to be a very successful American fashion designer. Jacobs has grown to have over 200 retail stores in 60 countries. • Jacobs’s father died when he was the age of 7 and his mother was ‘Mentally ill’ and ‘didn’t really take care of her kids’ which led to Jacobs living with his paternal grandmother as a teenager. His new home was on the upper west side in an apartment in the Majestic. It was in this apartment that he observed all the beautiful people walking past in central park which inspired him to become a fashion designer. • Jacobs graduated from ‘High school of art and design’ in 1981 and then went on to further his study and studied at ‘Parsons School of design’ in New York. • At age 15 Jacobs got his first job as a stock-boy at ‘Charivari’ a now non operating once high class and expensive clothing boutique in New York, by working as a stock-boy at a clothing boutique it increased young Jacobs desire for fashion. • While still studying at Parsons, Jacobs designed and sold his own first line of hand-knit sweaters. He was taught his expert knitting skills from his grandmother. As-well as making and selling his own sweaters he also designed his first collection for ‘Reuben Thomas’ under the sketchbook label. • In mid 1980’s Robert Duffy, Jacobs creative collaborator made their own business called “Jacob Duffy Designs inc” • In 1986 Jacobs was backed by Onward Kashiyama USA Inc to design and create his very first collection which beared the Marc Jacobs label • In the fall of 1993, Jacob Duffy Designs Inc launched their own licensing and design company which was named ‘Marc Jacobs International Company’ • In 1944 Jacobs produced his very first full collection of men’s fashion. • Jacobs, an openly gay man showed his compassion for Gay marriage by launching a shirt in his stores in 2009 which had printed on it a statement demanding the legalization of gay marriage. • Jacobs fall 2011 show was arguably one of his best. • Jacobs manages to predict exactly what women all over the world want to wear which is why he is such a success. Although have a rocky upbringing Jacobs found is true compassion for fashion whilst living with his grandmother who encouraged him throughout his fashion career because she herself was a very fashion driven lady. Jacobs also makes a tidy income with an average of $3000 expenditure per customer that enters his global stores. Design and Manufacture process – How do they design and make the items' • Jacobs is known to send his items of to other countries to be made were the labour rates are cheaper so that Jacobs can make more of a profit. The main country Jacobs has been known to send his orders of to is mainly China. • Handbags are also sent off to Italy to be made • Jacobs has a model named Shelly who he has wearing 15” heels for hours on end so he can try new garments on her and experiment with them and how they hang and drape of a person while walking and moving. Jacobs observes the garment, then makes a change to it, and repeats the process until he is happy with the outcome. Sometimes scrap fabric is used to experiment with, and once a successful design has been created he then picks the colour scheme and suitable fabrics. • Jacobs also has oversized inspiration boards were he collects absolute everything from old magazines pages to shrivelled up fabric and colour charts and then starts putting different elements together to make a new outrages outfit that will continue the plummeting of his success. Typical or iconic features – how can you tell it is one of their designs just by looking at it' • Polka dot apparel such as gloves, tights, stockings, dresses, pants • Stomp-Inducing boots • Marc Jacobs iconic turn lock • Lacquer fruit belts, pins and necklaces • Military jacket, vest and skirt • Printed T-shirts Recognition, Awards and famous clients' • While Jacobs was a student at parsons school of design he was the recipient of the schools highest honour ‘Design student of the year’ • In 1987 Jacobs was the youngest design ever to be awarded the fashion industries highest tribute, ‘the council of fashion designers of America (CFDA) Perry Ellis award for new fashion talent’. Receiving a CFDA award in the fashion industry is equivalent to winning an Oscar in the music industry. • In 1989 Jacobs was appointed head designer at Perry Ellis • In 1992 Jacobs was awarded with another CFDA award, ‘ the women’s designer of the year award for his fabled grunge collection’ • Over Jacobs time, to date he has won 7 CFDA awards, some of these including ‘ Women’s wear designer of the year,’ ‘Accessories designer of the year’ and ‘Menswear designer of the year’ • Kate Moss, Justin Timberlake and Anna Wintour are all clients of Marc Jacobs who hosted the metropolitan museum of Art along with Jacobs where they launched a new fragrance. • In 2005 Jacobs launched the first watch line with partner, fossil and also a collection store in Paris • Jacobs and Duffy are committed into giving back to the communities where they have stores and overall have been involved in over 60 charities which are a top priority for the pair to keep their relationship with the charity ongoing • In 1997 Jacobs was given the role of being the creative director of the French design house Louis Vuitton where he spends half of his time, and the other half at his own workshop. In his time at Louis Vuitton he created the companies first ready to wear clothing line • Jacobs is featured on time magazines ‘2010 Time 100’ list of the 100 most influential people in the world • Jacobs is also ranked 12th on Out magazine’s 2011 list of ’50 most powerful gay men and women in America • Jacobs has worked with popular artists for his Louis Vuitton collections, some of these popular artists include Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, Kanye West and Richard Prince • In 2007 Loic Prigent made a documentary film about Jacobs, which was called Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton, The documentary explores Jacobs life within the fashion industry and how he gets ready for big runway events • In July 2011 Jacobs was on the judging desk for the young talent award ‘Designer for tomorrow by Peek and Cloppenburg’ five finalists were chosen by the judges and all received a personal coaching by Jacobs • In 2011 it was rumoured that Jacobs may possibly succeed John Galliano as creative director of Christian Dior • Famous clients that attend Jacobs fashion shows typically include Kim Gordon and Vincent Gallo Analyse the factors that determine the success or failure of the designer' Jacobs is a very successful American fashion designer due to taking into consideration external factors that have an impact towards his success, some of the factors are the political views and influences by the policies of government, the economy, Social attitudes towards his design and also by having internal factors that are expertise in the industry and having the facilities to be able to produce clothing collections. External Factors: -Economic • Due to the Vietnam War ending in the 1960’s, Jacobs has based his clothing ranges mainly around the 70’s when the economy started booming and increasing again after the depression of the War. During War period the depression of it reflected onto the clothing styles making them very basic fitted designs with low embellishments to cut the cost because the economy was low and suffering. After the War had finished brighter and more elaborate colours and designs were introduced that reflected on the mood of the citizens and also from the economy booming allowing more money to be spent within the textile industry. • Because the American dollar is low, Jacobs exports majority of his designs overseas to China and Italy to be made where it is cheaper for him to pay the manufacturers rather than paying Americans. It is also, it is cost effective for Jacobs to export apparel to be made overseas because majority of his 60+ stores are situated worldwide. • Due to the recent global financial crisis (GFC) business has been made more difficult for designers in general including Marc Jacobs which is why it’s beneficial for him to get his products made worldwide rather than just in America. -Social • “Manages to predict exactly what women all over the world want to wear, whether that be his super-flat ‘mouse’ pumps, sergeant Pepper-style denim jackets of ‘Venetia’ handbags fitted with outsized silver buckles” – http://www.top-fashion-designers.info/marc-jacobs.html. This quote is an example of Jacobs’s knowledge and passion in the textile industry and his capability to make clothing items to suit and please everybody. • Although Jacobs took a big risk printing on a T-shirt a statement wanting to legalize gay marriage, the consequences of this print could cause controversy and potentially even break the designer. People who are against the legalization of Gay marriage could of being turned off from the Marc Jacobs label and opt not to buy it anymore, But Jacobs being an openly gay man he stuck with his passion and still printed it. Luckily for Jacobs it didn’t cause any controversy and he is still as famous as ever. Jacobs also received free publicity from this ‘stunt’ by drawing attention to his name and label. • Being an American designer Jacobs has a very open culture to design for, who basically accept whatever clothes they are shown to, whether it is covering or not so covering. Many famous celebrities live in America, Jacobs is very successful and well known amongst them and many celebrities wear his high end fashion designs to important evenings, Jacobs isn’t only a high end fashion designer he also makes casual everyday clothes especially his military style of clothing and his printed T-shirts. Jacobs has taken 70’s fashion and re-vamped it to make it amazing colourful high class fashion that is to die for. • Another way Jacobs has made a positive influence on the society and boosted his fashion designer career is the line of printed T-shirts he made that support the awareness of cancer. With photos of bare celebrities on them printed quotes such as “protect your largest organ” and “protect the skin your in” Because Jacobs produced this T-shirt line he has boosted his name and career with organizations and also the public with his sincerity towards cancer. -Technological • Technology has helped Jacobs be the successful designer he is many aspects of his designs. By having modern day computers and computer programs Jacobs was able to design his Cancer awareness T-shirts with ease on a computer and with the ability to chop and change the design as much as he likes without making it to time consuming. Designers can change their mind 100 times on a design and it can all be documented on computers and be a lot less time consuming then by doing it by hand. • Majority of Jacobs’s audience have access to computers and internet but maybe not access to a local Marc Jacobs store or stocker. Because of this Jacobs has created a very graphically advanced online website and store were anybody anywhere can purchase his clothes and have them delivered to there home address, and also find out where their closet store is. Because of this technology it has increased Jacobs’s audience and therefore means a bigger income for himself. • Jacobs has taken online merchandising to the next level with incorporating product videos into his website. There are many benefits to adding product videos to fashion designer websites. “By adding video to a luxury brand’s site, it captures the sense of movement and interaction that is so important to capturing product detail,” -said Maryssa Miller, vice president of ecommerce at create the group, New York. By incorporating videos into the site it helps drive sales for the brands by promoting newest fashions in real life footage where buyers can see the fit and drape of products • Jacobs has fully embraced social technology by opting for cost-effective digital marketing methods rather than old traditional ways of marketing a product. For Fashion week 2010 Jacobs decided to up the ante and go beyond digitally streaming their runway shows, but randomly choose 4 people in New York to receive tickets to the Marc Jacobs show. This was done through Foursquare and Jacobs bonding together and creating the ‘Fashion Victim’, this was a website allowing fashion week attendees, and others to ‘check-in’ at any Marc by Marc by Marc Jacobs stores in New York and around the country and unlock ‘the badge’. By unlocking the badge it instantly put the people in the draw to win 1 of the 4 tickets up for grabs. • Internal Factors: -Expertise • Jacobs went to ‘High school of art and design’ where he graduated from in 1981, it was here that he started finding his love and passion for being a fashion designing. He learnt basic textiles skills here which inspired him to further his knowledge • Jacobs then went on to study at ‘Parsons School of Design’ in New York where he furthered his fashion designing career • While at Parsons and living with his grandmother he was taught of his talented grandmother how to knit, it was in this period of time that he made and sold his own hand knitted jumpers • When Jacobs was 15 he worked as a stock-boy at ‘Charivari’ a high class and expensive clothing boutique in New York. While Jacobs was working there he studied the beautiful designs and manufacturing techniques that came in to the store season after season • . • . • . -Facilities • Jacobs has facilities overseas where he gets his designs sent over to and gets them created and low cost and then either sold in the Country its created or sent home, Or both. The idea of low cost manufacturing production is a bigger profit for Jacobs, A bigger profit means more money to spend on creating new exhilarating designs • In 1997 Jacobs was appointed creative director of the French design house Louis Vuitton, It is here that he spends half of his time in their workshop creating designs for Louis Vuitton (created their first ready to wear clothing line) and also gets inspiration from here to take back to his own Marc Jacobs workshop and work on the designs there. • . • . • . -Financial • Jacobs started his very first business in the mid 80’s with good friend Robert Duffy, It was with him that they together created their own business called ‘Jacob Duffy Designs inc” in this business they had shared input on designs but also had shared costs and income which made it easier for both of them to get their name amongst others and to start earning enough money to branch of and then create separate businesses • Jacobs was funded by Onward Kashiyama USA Inc to design and create his very own and first collection which beared the Marc Jacobs label, not the ‘Jacob Duffy Designs Inc’ label. It was the funding from Kashiyama that helped Jacobs continue to progress his name within the fashion industry • In the fall of 1993, Jacobs was still partnered with Robert Duffy Designs Inc launched their own licensing and design company which was named ‘Marc Jacobs international company’ because Jacobs was the main designer • In 1944 Jacobs branched off from Robert Duffy yet again and went on to create his very first full range of men’s clothing that boosted Jacobs name and publicity. • . • . Analyse the influences that the designer has on trends' • . • . • . • . Analyse the influences that trends have on the designer' • . • . • . • . Bibliography: • http://www.marcjacobs.com/world-of-marc-jacobs/biography/ • http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/marc_jacobs • http://www.top-fashion-designers.info/marc-jacobs.html • http://ellegirl.elle.com/teen-fashion/2011/balenciaga-meet-marc-jacobs/ • http://www.tendances-de-mode.com/en/2010/09/15/1886-marc-jacobs-spring-summer-2011 • Documentary film “Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton” • http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/03/09/marc-by-marc-jacobs-reissuen833563.html#251442 • http://mashable.com/2010/03/22/fashion-location-based/ • http://www.luxurydaily.com/marc-jacobs-donna-karan-use-on-site-videos-to-drive-sales/