Chenin_Blanc

Chenin Blanc By Brandon Wright Oenology & Viticulture 12/14/11 History Chenin blanc, also known as Pineau de la Loire, Steen, Anjou, Confort, Franc Blanc, Pineau de Savennieres, Pineau Gros, Pineau Gros de Vouvray, Rouchalin, Stein, and many other names is a white wine grape varietal from the Loire Valley of France. It is considered a blank canvas for wine makers in its’ ability to produce everything from sparkling wines, long lived, unctuous, nectar like dessert wines, crisp, dry table wines, and even brandy. The most famous, vibrant chenin blancs in the world come from the Loire Valley of France, specifically from the appellations of Vouvray, Savennieres, Anjou, and Saumur. In particular, the great Vouvrays and Savennieres are stunningly complex, long lived wines with racy acidity. In the Loire chenin blanc is made in a variety of degrees of sweetness from bone-dry to quite sweet. Many have a touch of sweetness that is barely perceptible, the result of leaving a tiny bit of residual sugar in the wines to accentuate fullness and balance the acidity. Fully sweet chenin blancs can be phenomenal. The most recognized of all is Quarts de Chaume, from a tiny area in the middle of the Loire Valley. Chenin blanc is also the leading white grape of South Africa, where it is locally known as Steen. There, however, it is unfortunately made mostly into a simple, innocuous, easy-drinking wine. In California, chenin blanc becomes a wine that is effortless to drink, with soft, round flavors and notes of pears, melons, apricots, apples, and honeyed syrup. Viticulture & Vinification Resistance to many diseases, vine vigor, and the tendency to early bud break and late ripening, while retaining naturally high acidity, suits chenin blanc to grow in climates otherwise too warm for many vinifera varietals. The vine grows well in many soil types and can be very vigorous in either sandy loam or clay loam. Production is fairly consistent at from five to eight tons per acre. At three or four years old, the vines tend to overproduce and may set crops too large to fully ripen in the coolest areas. Chenin blanc grapes are susceptible to both bunch rot and sun burn. In spite of its wide planting and potential flavor palates, most chenin blanc is made into serviceable, but generally bland wine and frequently blended with other grape varietals to contribute acidity without significantly altering flavor profile. A general tendency to over-irrigate and overcrop further reduce most chenin blanc to the forgettable. Careful viticulural practices to reduce crop size and prevent sunburn can overcome chenin blanc’s weaknesses and reward the effort with distinctive and excellent wines. Significant Areas for Growing and Producing Loire Valley The middle Loire is probably the most fascinating and least well known part of the valley. This is where the Loire’s best sweet and medium-sweet wines, sparkling wines, and red wines are all made, along with terrific dry wines and roses. While several grape varietals are grown, the leading white grape is chenin blanc. Savennieres Anjou-Saumur’s most extraordinary dry white wine, Savenieres, is possibly the greatest dry chenin blanc in the world. Made in a tiny area just southwest of the city of Angers, Savennieres are densely flavored wines with such intensity, grip, minerality, and taut acidity that they can be aged for decades. The vineyards are spread over steep, south-facing slopes of volcanic schist. Yields from these vineyards are among the lowest in the Loire, which accounts, in part, for the depth and flavor. The Sweet Wines of Anjou-Saumur A number of the best wines of Anjou-Saumur are medium-sweet or fully sweet whites that carry the appellations Quarts de Chaume, Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon, or Coteax de l’Aubance. The smallest and most prestigious of these appellations is Quarts de Chaume, and its wines can be absolute masterpieces, with soaring elegance, lightness, and a real purity of fruit. In all four appellations the wines are always made from chenin blanc, which in this part of the world exudes gorgeous floral, peachy, apricot flavors. Yet the naturally high acidity in the northern climate grapes plus certain flintiness from the soil keeps the wines from being too cloying. Vouvray One white wine appellation of Touraine is well known all over the world: Vouvray. Just across the Loire River is Montlouis, although the wines here are not as well recognized nor, in most cases are they exciting. By law, both Vouvray and Montlouis must be made of 100 percent chenin blanc. In the case of Vouvray, that perhaps states the case too simplistically, for the best Vouvrays are absolutely exquisite and exceptional examples of the grape. No other place in the world produces chenin blancs that are so gossamer, richly flavored, and honeyed-even when dry. Most astonishing of all is how long a great Vouvray lasts. It would seem counter-intuitive that a white wine could taste vibrant and luxurious after half a century or more, but the top Vouvrays can and do. Not surprisingly, these have always been collectors’ wines. Truly great Vouvray is rare, however. Far more Vouvray today is simply nice tasting commercial wine made by negociants. South Africa Nearly a quarter of all South African vineyards are planted with chenin blanc, although production is in decline. Locally, it’s often called steen. It is made, mostly by wine-making co-ops, into dry and sweet still wines as well into sparkling wines. South African chenin blanc can be delicious, but many of the top small producers believe it lacks a sophisticated image and are pulling it out of their vineyards. Although chenin blanc is in decline, white grapes still far outnumber red on the continent. Food Pairing for Chenin Blanc The varying styles of wine made from chenin blanc make it a versatile varietal in food pairings. Lighter, dry styles can pair well with lighter dishes such as green salads with vinaigrette; poached, steamed, or baked fish; and boneless, skinless chicken. The sweeter styles, including some Vouvrays, can balance the spicy heat of some ethnic Asian and Latin cuisines. The medium bodied chenin blancs with ample acidity can match well with cream sauces and rich dishes like pate and foie gras. Summary Chenin blanc is an adaptable, easy to grow white wine grape that is widely grown in France, North America, and South Africa. In the Loire Valley of France and South Africa the grape is made in many varying styles of wine. As a blank canvass to the winemaker, chenin blanc can produce dry, acidic table wines; sweet, viscous dessert wines; sparkling wines; and even be distilled to make brandy. Wines made from chenin blanc always express the area the grapes are grown in. No matter the where the grapes are from there tends to be honeyed, floral, and mineral qualities in the wines. The wide range of styles allows the grape to accompany many different foods.