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建立人际资源圈Differences in Status Reflected Through Dress In the 1910s in UK-澳洲代写
2017-06-01 来源: 51due教员组 类别: 更多范文
本篇Differences in Status Reflected Through Dress In the 1910s in UK-澳洲代写讲了1914年开始并于1918年结束的第一次世界大战对时尚界没有重大影响，但服装的多样性和女性时尚的变化使其成为世界时尚史上的特殊时期（尤因， 2001，第122页）。同时，在这段时期，这件衣服受到“社会流动性和性别与阶级结构”的影响很大的影响。本篇澳洲代写由51due论文代写机构整理，供大家参考阅读。
Women’s status changed a lot during the First World War. For the lower class females who had to work in factories, their dress changed according to their work needs. According to Ewing, “in 1915, the urgent need for women to play a part in the war effort was realized by the authorities” (2015, p. 122). As a result, a lot of women had to join the army and played roles as soldiers or worked as workers, drivers, and servants and so on. During the First World War, “in Britain the Women’s Service Bureau recruited one and a half million women for civilian jobs, where they replace men” (Ewing, 2001, p. 122). To meet the requirements of their jobs, dresses and clothes of women changed a lot when compared with traditional daily dress. For example, women began to go into “uniforms wore strictly utilitarian underwear” (Ewing, 2001, p. 122) and the pre-war fashion, narrow skirts, “disappeared” (Ewing, 2001, p.133) during the First World War and it was replaced by the “ankle-length skirts and bulky jackets of civilian styles” (Ewing, 2015, p.133). The changes of fashion made females featured by boyish figure and the principle of clothes changed to be “wearable, comfortable, and becoming. (Ewing, 2015, p.133)
For the middle class women in the UK, their dress changed according to their profession, vocation, and works. Different from the lower class women, this group of women worked as teachers, lawyers, and doctors and so on. During the World War I, the traditional ideas of fashion for female were challenged by modern thoughts. “Fashion, which for hundreds of years had lived by exaggerating in turn the main female physical characteristics, now set about eliminating such features” (Ewing, 2001 p.133). Especially for females who had works and vocations, they refused to use dress to exaggerating their female characteristics. Instead, they tried to “demonstrate their equality with men by suppressing physical differences” (Ewing, 2001, p.126). As a result, the new fashion emerged among professional women during the First World War period. They preferred the dress which could “flatten the bosom, narrow the hops and bypass the waist” (Ewing, 2001, p.126). So for a lot of professional women, they chose to wear trousers to replace the female-style dress when they worked and they preferred to wear straight line “underskirts” (Ewing, 2001, p.126) which could almost narrow the hops. With a high-waist design, the straight line underskirts could also bypass the waist. Compared with the fashion before the war, the dress of middle class women become boyish and could be the garments that “ready-to-wear” (Cumming, 1988, p. 31)
The upper class women’s dress also changed a lot during the First World War in the UK. In the 1910s, the silent movies came to the end and were replaced by sound motion film. As a result, the film industry gained rapid development and stimulated the cinema popularizes. For example, the post-fashion corsets were not the symbol of upper class ladies. Instead, they gave it away, making “s-shaped silhouette give(s) way to ehemise” (Jones, 1999, 20). Featured by looser styles, the hobble skirts became popular among upper class women due to the “motor cars and mobility” (Jones, 1999, 20) Meanwhile, the fashion brand, Channel, enjoyed a rapid development in the 1910s. Its “classical suits and practical dress” (Jones, 1999, 20) won great popularity among upper class women. Such changes in dresses made women look handsome and elegant and have profound impact on female fashion history. For example, the classical suit and dress of Channel are still popular among females at the present days.
In conclusion, during the 1910s, also the period of World War I, the upper class, middle class and lower class females dressed different kind of clothes and dress to distinguish their status differences. The upper class females would dress suit or practical dress, middle class women would dress trousers or straight line “underskirts”, and lower class women would dress jackets or ankle-length skirts.
Bibliography
Cumming, Valerie. (1988). “Defining Dress and Some Early Authors.” Understanding Fashion History. London: BT Batsford.
Ewing, Elizabeth. (2001). “World War 1, then the 20s and Boyish Figure 1914-1929.” Dress and Undress: History of Women’s Underwear: 122, 123, 126, 133.
Jones, Sue Jenkyn. (1999). “Fashion Time Line.” Fashion Design. London: Laurence King Publishing:20.
Palmera, Alexandra. “New Directions: Fashion History Studies and Research in North America and England.” Fashion Theory 1 (1997): 301.
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